Rice bowls Daisen, Tottori
Daisen Okowa
All year
FOOD & DRINK

A soy-seasoned glutinous rice dish from the foot of Mount Daisen. The story given for its origin is that warrior monks, setting out for a battle, cooked rice with mountain birds and mountain herbs in it and prayed for victory. Whether or not that happened, the dish is old and it is attached to the mountain.

More traceably, it began its life as temple food, which is a different kind of claim. Daisenji served a plain vegetarian okowa to people undertaking training there, and the recipe moved out of the temple and into ordinary houses, changing as it went.

By the Meiji era it had a public life. At the Bakuroza ground below the temple, a horse and cattle market was held each spring and autumn, and the traders were fed this. Pilgrims walking up to Daisen carried it as a packed lunch.

The current version has glutinous rice with grilled chikuwa, chicken, carrot, burdock, dried shiitake, bamboo shoot, konnyaku, green beans. A dish that started as Buddhist vegetarian cooking now contains chicken and fish paste, and nobody seems troubled by that. It is sold as a station bento at Yonago, on a platform, which is about as far from a mountain monastery as food is likely to get.

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