Hyogo has three protected sake origins inside one prefecture. Nada-Gogo was registered in 2018, Harima in 2020, Itami in 2024. No other prefecture carries three.
Nada is the name outsiders know. But it was Itami that was shipping sake to Edo first, back when the trade went by boat around the coast. The town sits on gentle hills between two rivers, ringed by the Rokko, Nagao and Hokusetsu ranges, and it was brewing for the capital while Nada was still getting started.
The town lies between the Ina and the Muko rivers, on ground that slopes gently down from the hills. Itami sake leads with sweetness and a certain weight of umami, and then acidity and a trace of bitterness arrive underneath and tighten the finish. It does not stay sweet all the way down, which is the part that takes people by surprise.
Harima, inland to the west, is rice country — a great deal of the rice that goes into brewing across the country is grown on those plains, and the growers have never had their name on a bottle until now. So within one prefecture you have the fields, the old shipping town, and the large houses at Nada, and rather than combine them under a single prefectural name, somebody went to the trouble of registering all three separately. Proximity was not treated as sameness.
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