The wrapper is thin and the filling runs to vegetables rather than meat. Most people order two plates at once, one pan-fried and one boiled, and eat them alternately without comment, as though this were the obvious way to proceed.

The dish came here by a traceable route. An army division garrisoned in the city spent the war years in Manchuria, and the people who came back brought the method with them. It is unusual to be able to point at a single road like that. Most regional foods arrive by drift, and their origins are argued over for a century.

Around three hundred restaurants in the city now serve them, and the fillings are not standardised. Some use garlic heavily, some leave it out. The local habit is to dip in vinegar alone, no soy sauce and no chilli oil, and it is worth trying at least once. Without the salt of the soy, you notice the sweetness of the cabbage and the thinness of the skin.

A trade association formed in 1991 and a festival follows every November, so the town has made the thing official as well as habitual. There is a statue of a dumpling outside the station. Few places are that direct about what they are known for.