Narukokyo is a gorge a hundred meters deep, cut by the Oya River through the mountains of northern Miyagi, and for two weeks between late October and early November its cliff walls turn to flame. Beech, oak, and maple blaze red and gold against the dark green of pines that keep their color. The best-known view is from the observation deck near the resthouse, looking down the canyon toward the arch of the Ofukazawa Bridge. Photographers know a second reason to come. The Rikuu East Line threads through the gorge, and several times a day a two-car local train emerges from a tunnel directly into the foliage—a moment so brief and so composed that people wait hours with tripods for it. The timetable is public. The light is not guaranteed. A walking path loops 2.2 kilometers through the canyon in about fifty minutes. Wear real shoes; autumn mornings here are cold and the boardwalks can be slick. And then there is the other reason Naruko exists: hot water. Naruko Onsen, one of Tohoku's great spa towns and the home of the painted kokeshi doll, sits just beside the gorge. The correct order of operations, locals will tell you, is simple. Walk the canyon while the light is good. Then get in the bath.