A chapter of Japan
Okinawa
41 towns and villages, listed not by rank but as they are — places you may not have met yet.
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AJIFood & drink
Flavour
G
Vegetables and beans
Goya Champuru
Flavour
I
Hot pots and soups
Ikasumi Jiru
Flavour
M
Fish and shellfish
Makishi Ichiba Sakana
Flavour
M
Noodles
Miyako Soba
Flavour
M
Rice bowls
Mozuku Don
Flavour
O
Noodles
Okinawa Soba
Flavour
P
Rice bowls
Pork Tamago Onigiri
Flavour
R
Meat
Rafute
Flavour
R
Shochu and awamori
Ryukyu Awamori
Flavour
S
Sweets
Sata Andagi
Flavour
T
Rice bowls
Taco Rice
Flavour
Y
Noodles
Yaeyama Soba
MACHITowns & trades
Trade
Y
Producing region / Tourism and lodging
Yaeyama Minsa Weaving Workshop
Five kasuri figures and four, alternating.
Trade
M
Places of trade
Makishi Public Market and Heiwa-dori
Buy downstairs, eat upstairs.
Trade
M
Primary industry / Producing region
Miyako Jofu Weavers and Ramie Fields
The thread is made by splicing ramie fibre by hand.
Trade
T
Primary industry / Tourism and lodging
Taketomi Island Village
The sand on the roads is swept every morning.
Trade
T
Primary industry
Tonaki Island Village
The ground is dug out so that the houses sit low.
Trade
Y
Producing region
Yomitan Yachimun no Sato Pottery Village
Once the kiln is lit, it burns for four days.
EVENTFestivals & gatherings
Event
N
Naha Great Tug-of-War Festival
Everyone pulls a rope two hundred meters long.
Event
O
Okinawa Zento Eisa Festival
A dance to send off the ancestors fills the night.
Event
M
Makishi Public Market
In Okinawa, a market is called a machigwaa.
Event
M
Miyakojima Paantu: The God Who Marks You
The deity appears from the forest covered in mud — thick, an…
Event
Y
Yaeyama Hoonen-sai: Harvest Offerings at the Edge of Japan
In the Yaeyama islands — Japan's southwestern edge, closer t…
Event
I
Ishigaki Euglena Mall: The Kitchen of the Yaeyamas
Before the ferry to Taketomi or Iriomote or any of the outer…
Event
T
Tsuboya Yachimun Street: Okinawa's Living Pottery District
Yachimun is the Okinawan word for pottery, and Tsuboya is wh…
Event
R
Ryukyu Glass: Blowing Something Beautiful from Broken Bottles
After the war, there was glass everywhere — bottles discarde…
Event
K
Kudaka Island: The Island at the Center of Ryukyuan Spiritual Life
Kudaka Island is five square kilometers, accessible by ferry…
Event
O
Okinawa Kanasa Fireworks
"Kanasa" means beloved.
Event
N
Naha Okinawa Fireworks Festival
Fire falls on a southern sea.
Event
R
Ryukyu Bingata Dyeing Experience
These are the vivid colors of a southern island.
Event
N
Peak bloom early February
Nago Castle Park Cherry Blossoms
This one flowers in winter.
ISLANDThe islands
Island
西
西表島
The ferry from Ishigaki takes a little over half an hour, and the engine noise fades as the harbor at Ōhara or Uehara comes into view.
Island
石
石垣島
The runway at Painushima Ishigaki Airport sits closer to the sugarcane than to anything urban, and the air on arrival already carries salt and something green.
Island
宮
宮古島
The island has no rivers.
Island
久
久米島
The flight from Naha lasts barely longer than a coffee break, and yet stepping out at Kume-jima Airport, the air already moves differently — slower, saltier, weighted with the volcanic hills that rise toward the interior.
Island
南
南大東島
The plane approach is the first clue: open ocean in every direction, then a small flat green disc rising out of water that drops away almost vertically beneath it.
Island
伊
伊良部島
The bridge from Miyako stretches long and low over shallow water, and by the time the road meets land again, the pace has already eased.
Island
与
与那国島
The wind off the south cliffs arrives almost before you do.
Island
伊
伊江島
The pointed silhouette of Gusuku-yama rises from the flat surface of the island, visible long before the ferry from the Motobu Peninsula closes the final stretch of sea.
Island
伊
伊平屋島
The ferry from Unten Port crosses to Maedomari, and the scale of things adjusts on the way over.
Island
多
多良間島
Sugarcane fields run almost to the edge of the coral shore, broken here and there by a tethered goat or a low concrete wall.
Island
渡
渡嘉敷島
The high-speed boat from Tomari pulls away from Naha and within a little over half an hour the water has turned a clarity that makes the hull seem suspended.
Island
伊
伊是名島
The ferry from Untenkō runs on its own quiet schedule, and by the time it docks at Nakada Port, the pace of the mainland has already loosened.
Island
波
波照間島
The high-speed boat from Ishigaki crosses water that changes color several times along the way, and the dock arrives without much ceremony.
Island
北
北大東島
The cliffs drop straight into the sea.
Island
下
下地島
A jet on approach makes a low pass over the reef, then climbs again without landing.
Island
小
小浜島
The ferry from Ishigaki arrives at Kohama Port in less than half an hour, and from the dock the island reveals itself as a low green dome rather than a coastline.
Island
粟
粟国島
The ferry from Naha's Tomari pier takes its time crossing the open water, and by the time the harbor at Aguni comes into view, the rhythm of arrival has already slowed.
Island
座
座間味島
The high-speed boat from Naha takes under an hour; the slower ferry, about twice that.
Island
竹
竹富島
White coral sand laid out along the lanes, raked each morning, holds the print of bicycle tires and bare feet alike.
Island
阿
阿嘉島
The boat from Naha pulls into Aka Port, and within a few minutes of stepping ashore, the absence of cars becomes the first thing one registers.
Island
渡
渡名喜島
The ferry from Naha's Tomari port takes a little over two hours, and by the time it docks at Tonaki Port, the rhythm of the main island has dissolved into something slower.
Island
来
来間島
Sugarcane fields cover most of the small island, broken here and there by lower rows of tobacco leaves.
Island
池
池間島
The bridge from the main island of Miyako curves low across shallow water, and the moment you cross it, the air changes.
Island
津
津堅島
The ferry from Heshikiya port takes about ten minutes by hydrofoil, twenty-five by slower boat, and runs only a handful of times a day.
Island
久
久高島
The ferry from Azama port takes less than half an hour, but the distance feels longer once you step off at Tokujin.
Island
野
野甫島
The ridges run northwest to southeast in slow waves, sotetsu and Ryukyu pine clinging to the limestone.
Island
鳩
鳩間島
The high-speed boat from Ishigaki cuts in toward Itoma Hama Terminal, and the floating pontoon shifts under the weight of arrivals.
Island
嘉
嘉弥真島
The boat from Kohama crosses a narrow stretch of water and arrives at a low, flat island where nothing rises high enough to block the horizon.
Island
オ
オーハ島
At low tide, a strip of sand emerges between Ōu Island and the smaller island to its east, and one can cross on foot across a narrow channel.
Island
大
大神島
The ferry leaves from Shimajiri harbor on Miyako, four crossings a day, and the small boat called Ukan Kariyusu pulls in at Ōgami Port, where a floating pontoon and a rest hut wait beside the water.
Island
由
由布島
The water buffalo carts cross the shallows between Iriomote and the smaller island in ten or fifteen minutes, the wheels making a slow wake through water that barely reaches the animals' knees.
ONSENHot springs
TOWNSAll municipalities
Town
a
agunison
The ferry from Naha Port arrives once a day at Aguni Port, and when it leaves again, the island settles back into its own pace.
Town
i
ieson
The ferry from Motobu Port takes about half an hour, and by the time Ie-jima's silhouette sharpens — the abrupt cone of Gusuku-yama rising from a flat shelf of coral and cane fields — the island has already announced its character.
Town
i
ishigakishi
The ferry schedules at Ishigaki Port's離島ターミナル move on island time — unhurried, functional, essential.
Town
i
izenason
The ferry from Uten Port on the main island takes several hours before Izena Island appears — low on the water, edged by reef, its highest point the rounded bulk of Onoyama rising quietly above the shoreline.
Town
i
itomanshi
The fishing boats at Itoman Harbor leave early, before the market stalls have fully arranged themselves.
Town
i
iheyason
The ferry from Unten Port takes roughly eighty minutes, and by the time the bow of *Ferry Iheya 3* swings toward Maehama, the Okinawan mainland has dissolved behind you.
Town
u
urasoeshi
The monorai station at Urasoe Maeda opens onto a city that moves with commercial purpose — logistics terminals, wholesale districts, the hum of buses on Route 58 connecting it to the coast.
Town
u
urumashi
The road stretches out across open water, connecting the Katsuren Peninsula to the island of Henza, with the sea visible on both sides through the windshield.
Town
o
oogimison
Steep forested ridges press almost to the waterline along this stretch of Okinawa's northern coast, leaving little flat ground between the trees and the East China Sea.
Town
o
okinawashi
Bilingual signage lines the streets near Koza Crossroads — Japanese on one side, English on the other — a quiet remnant of decades spent adjacent to Kadena Air Base.
Town
o
onnason
The coastline along Route 58 is narrow — the village of Onna stretches long and thin, hemmed between the East China Sea and a ridge of forested hills, with Onna-dake rising behind the small settlements clustered at river mouths.
Town
k
kadenachou
From the rooftop observation deck of 道の駅かでな, the runways of Kadena Air Base stretch across the horizon in every direction — not a backdrop but the actual geography of the town.
Town
k
kitadaitouson
The cargo-passenger ship *Daitō* docks at Kitadaitō Port several dozen times a year, and for many islanders that schedule is simply the rhythm of supply.
Town
k
kitanakagusukuson
Red-tiled roofs catch the afternoon light on the hillside above Nakamura House, where the curved eaves and stone-flanked gate have stood since the mid-eighteenth century.
Town
k
kinchou
Taco rice was born here, in the strip of bars and restaurants that opened along Kin's new quarter in the early 1960s, when American servicemen from Camp Hansen filled the streets after dark.
Town
g
ginozason
The Hanshin Tigers arrive each spring, and the village reorganizes itself around them.
Town
g
ginowanshi
Fences run along the perimeter of Futenma Air Station, and the streets simply continue on the other side — convenience stores, apartment blocks, a school gate, a car repair shop.
Town
k
kunigamison
Forest covers most of what you see from the road through Kunigami.
Town
k
kumejimachou
The ferry from Naha takes hours; the flight is shorter but lands you at a small terminal where the air already feels different — salt-thick, unhurried.
Town
z
zamamison
The ferry from Naha takes the better part of an hour at speed, and by the time Zamami Port comes into view, the water has changed color in a way that is difficult to explain without seeing it.
Town
t
taketomichou
Ferry schedules out of Ishigaki Port branch toward islands most visitors never name.
Town
t
taramason
The flight from Miyako takes less than half an hour, and when the plane descends over Tarama-jima, the flatness is the first thing you notice — no hills rising to meet you, just a disc of green cane fields and coral-white coast sitting low in the sea.
Town
c
chiyatanchou
The western coast of Okinawa's main island carries a particular layering that becomes legible only slowly.
Town
t
tokashikison
The ferry from Naha's Tomari Pier cuts west across the East China Sea, and by the time Tokashiki Island comes into view, the water has shifted to a shade that resists easy description — the locals call it Kerama Blue, and the name sticks because nothing else quite fits.
Town
t
tonakison
Red-tiled rooftops peek above dense rows of fukugi trees, their trunks forming a windbreak so old and deliberate that the houses behind them seem almost sheltered from time itself.
Town
t
tomigusukushi
Salt once defined this stretch of coast.
Town
n
nakagusukuson
The stone walls of Nakagusuku Castle rise in curved tiers above the hillside, fitted without mortar in a technique particular to the Ryukyu kingdom.
Town
n
nakijinson
The stone walls of Nakijin Castle rise in layered curves across the headland, and the wind that comes off the East China Sea carries nothing in particular — salt, perhaps, the faint green of karst scrub.
Town
n
nagoshi
A gajumaru tree stands near the old town center of Nago, its roots and canopy so dense and sprawling that the trunk seems less like a single tree than a slow accumulation of the place itself.
Town
n
nahashi
The monorailtracks run above street level, and from the window you can see rooftops, a flash of sea, then the dense grid of Kokusai-dori below.
Town
n
nanjoushi
The bus from Naha takes you southeast along the coast, and by the time you reach Nanjo, the skyline has flattened into limestone ridges and low agricultural land edging toward the sea.
Town
n
nishiharachou
Sugarcane fields once defined the economy here, and their trace persists even in the footprint of サンエー西原シティ, a large shopping complex built on the site of a former sugar refinery.
Town
h
haebaruchou
Pumpkins appear on roadside stalls in Haebaru, stacked alongside bundles of chōmeisō, the long-leafed herb whose name translates loosely as "longevity grass." The town sits inland, hemmed on all sides by other municipalities, yet it moves at its own pace — dense with residents, busy with traffic feeding onto the Naha Expressway, and still somehow domestic in feel.
Town
h
higashison
The name itself is a clue: *higashi*, east, given because the sun rises here first, over the Pacific-facing coast of northern Okinawa.
Town
m
minamidaitouson
The flight from Naha takes less than an hour, but the distance feels larger than that.
Town
m
miyakojimashi
Flat limestone ground stretches beneath the cane fields — no hills, no rivers to speak of, just porous rock that drinks the rain before it can gather.
Town
m
motobuchou
Salt water rises from the ground at 塩川, a river where the current runs brackish from a natural spring — the only one of its kind recorded in Japan.
Town
y
yaesechou
The stone lion at Tomori has stood on its limestone base since the late seventeenth century, facing the fields as a guard against fire.
Town
y
yonagunichou
The ferry from Ishigaki takes the better part of an afternoon, and by the time Kubura port appears through the salt haze, the sense of having crossed into somewhere genuinely apart is difficult to shake.
Town
y
yonabaruchou
The old railway station at Yonabaru was once busy enough to carry a crown prince's imperial train.
Town
y
yomitanson
The kilns at Yomitan Sanpin Kita-gama still burn with wood, their thirteen-chamber climbing structure producing the thick-glazed, earth-toned wares that four master potters share between them.